攀巖訓(xùn)練中的一些問(wèn)題解析：訓(xùn)練過(guò)量后該如何
我們都知道攀巖訓(xùn)練很苦，時(shí)間長(zhǎng)了，人的情緒或精神會(huì)發(fā)生一些很奇怪的事情，是訓(xùn)練過(guò)量嗎?我們?cè)撛趺醋霾拍芑謴?fù)正常狀態(tài)呢?下面學(xué)習(xí)啦小編帶你了解一下吧。
攀巖訓(xùn)練中的一些問(wèn)題解析：訓(xùn)練過(guò)量后該如何
在討論這個(gè)問(wèn)題前，讓我們先看看這種情況發(fā)生的可能性吧-其實(shí)你根本就沒(méi)有訓(xùn)練過(guò)量。我覺(jué)得大多有訓(xùn)練過(guò)量癥狀的攀巖者所做的運(yùn)動(dòng)量實(shí)際上并沒(méi)有超過(guò)他們身體所能承受的極限，而是因?yàn)橛?xùn)練方式的一成不變而造成的。你總是在同一個(gè)巖壁，同一類(lèi)型的巖石，同一場(chǎng)景下做著相同的訓(xùn)練嗎?如果是這樣的話(huà)，在你采取措施像多休息來(lái)治療訓(xùn)練過(guò)量之前，請(qǐng)先嘗試做一些不同的運(yùn)動(dòng)。想象一下你通常的攀登路線(xiàn)，然后對(duì)其稍作改變?cè)谂实恰?/p>
然而，如果你確定你的運(yùn)動(dòng)方式正確，身體也能按你意愿而動(dòng)，那可能就是你的運(yùn)動(dòng)量過(guò)大了。但這種情況在業(yè)余愛(ài)好者中是很少見(jiàn)的，如果出現(xiàn)可采取以下三種措施：
(一)：查清出現(xiàn)運(yùn)動(dòng)過(guò)量癥狀的真正原因，像睡眠不足，飲食不善，攀巖工具單一，熱身活動(dòng)效果差等等。如果你打算進(jìn)行一些超負(fù)荷訓(xùn)練，就要比以往更加注意上述因素。
(二)：與其休息，不如對(duì)訓(xùn)練負(fù)荷稍作調(diào)整，具體量可根據(jù)個(gè)體情況而決定。一旦出現(xiàn)訓(xùn)練過(guò)量現(xiàn)象，有的運(yùn)動(dòng)員可能需要兩三天休息調(diào)整，有的則只需要在一兩天內(nèi)減少運(yùn)動(dòng)量而已。
不過(guò)請(qǐng)記住停下來(lái)休息只是做到一半-不要忘了減輕身體和心理上的壓力，放松自己，好好吃，好好休息，換個(gè)環(huán)境，給你身體恢復(fù)的機(jī)會(huì)。
(三)細(xì)水長(zhǎng)流，慢登高峰。如果你已經(jīng)不間斷刻苦訓(xùn)練很多周了，即使你清楚自己身體很健康，只是有點(diǎn)疲憊罷了，但或許你的身體會(huì)發(fā)出信號(hào)告訴你如果繼續(xù)這種強(qiáng)度的話(huà)，身體就會(huì)出現(xiàn)問(wèn)題。記住。一定要按以下的做：接下來(lái)幾周減少訓(xùn)練量，給自己比平時(shí)更多的時(shí)間休息，更多的去練習(xí)技巧，各種各樣的攀巖技巧，而不是一味的體能訓(xùn)練，這樣才能出成績(jī)。有時(shí)候，攀巖者犯得最大錯(cuò)誤就是休息不足。你可能感覺(jué)運(yùn)動(dòng)量一下降辛辛苦苦訓(xùn)練來(lái)的東西就會(huì)喪失，但只要你的攀巖是規(guī)范的，能發(fā)生的只是你身體從低迷的狀態(tài)中恢復(fù)過(guò)來(lái)，而且較之前更強(qiáng)大。時(shí)間會(huì)給你完成計(jì)劃的機(jī)會(huì)，但偶爾的暫時(shí)忘記訓(xùn)練，把它當(dāng)成終生的項(xiàng)目。
Is Climbing The Best Training For Climbing?
攀爬就是最佳的攀巖訓(xùn)練方法嗎?
It‘s an old adage that “climbing is the best training for climbing，” and many climbers lean on this line as an excuse for not engaging in any training activities outside of climbing itself. Let’s examine this precept and determine， once and for all， if it is valid.
有句流行的說(shuō)法“攀爬就是最好的攀巖訓(xùn)練”許多攀巖者依著這個(gè)籍口不去做任何攀巖之外的訓(xùn)練活動(dòng)。讓我們檢查鑒定一下是否是肯定的，如果這是有效的話(huà)。
When I am asked the question “Is climbing the best training for climbing”， my canned answer is--“it depends.” This is because the best type of training for a given climber depends on his or her current strengths and weaknesses as well as current absolute climbing ability. For instance， in terms of improving climbing technique and mental skills， no amount of strength training will produce direct improvements in these areas. However， for developing sport-specific strength (i.e. conditioning to improve grip strength， lock-off ability， and endurance of upper body strength)， simply “climbing for training” will produce limited results and only slow (or no) improvement from year to year. Sound familiar?
當(dāng)我被問(wèn)道“攀爬是最好的攀巖訓(xùn)練嗎?”我都會(huì)這樣回答“看情況”。這是因?yàn)閷?duì)特定的攀巖者最好的訓(xùn)練類(lèi)型是依據(jù)他或她目前的優(yōu)勢(shì)與短處以及目前的絕對(duì)攀爬能力。舉個(gè)例子，談到關(guān)于改進(jìn)攀巖技巧與心理技巧，力量訓(xùn)練不會(huì)在這些領(lǐng)域產(chǎn)生直接的改進(jìn)。然而，對(duì)發(fā)展特定運(yùn)動(dòng)力量(例如訓(xùn)練提高抓握力量，鎖定力和上身耐力)簡(jiǎn)單地“攀爬作為訓(xùn)練”是只能產(chǎn)生很有限的作用，或一年年地緩慢進(jìn)展。這些話(huà)，是不是似曾聽(tīng)說(shuō)?
One reason that climbing is not the best method of strength training is because the ultimate goals of “training” versus “climbing” are very different. For instance， the goal in climbing is to avoid muscular failure at all costs and， hopefully， reach the top of a boulder problem or climb before the arm and forearm muscles pump out. CONVERSEly， when training for climbing it is often best to exercise at the highest possible intensity and produce muscular failure in a few minutes， if not a few seconds. Summarizing--in climbing， you strive to avoid failure; in training， you tend to pursue failure.
說(shuō)攀爬不是最佳的力量訓(xùn)練方法，原因之一是因?yàn)?ldquo;訓(xùn)練”對(duì)比“攀巖”的最終目標(biāo)是非常不一樣的。舉例說(shuō)吧，攀爬的目的是想方設(shè)法避免肌肉力竭，在手臂和前臂肌肉力竭前有希望到達(dá)頂點(diǎn)。相反地，為攀巖的訓(xùn)練通常是在幾秒或幾分鐘內(nèi)做最高的可能達(dá)到的強(qiáng)度產(chǎn)生肌肉力竭會(huì)是最好的練習(xí)。總結(jié)來(lái)說(shuō)，在攀巖，你是努力避免失敗;而在訓(xùn)練，你是趨向產(chǎn)生失敗。
Another example that underscores the difference between climbing and training for climbing is the way in which you grip the rock. In climbing， the rock dictates a random use of many different grip positions and， at times， you may even deliberately vary the way you grip the rock. As a result， it‘s unlikely that any single grip position will ever get worked maximally and， therefore， the individual grip positions (e.g. crimp， open hand， pinch， etc.) are slow to increase strength. This should help you understand why a full season of climbing may indeed improve your anaerobic endurance (i.e. endurance of strength)， but do little to increase you absolute maximum grip strength. Therefore， varying grip positions is a great strategy for maximizing endurance when climbing for performance， but it stinks for training maximum grip strength. Effective finger strength training demands you target a specific grip position and work it until failure (See HIT Workouts ).
另外一個(gè)能揭示攀巖和訓(xùn)練有所區(qū)別的例子在于你抓握巖石的方式。在攀巖中，巖石意味著在一些不同的抓握姿勢(shì)中的一個(gè)隨機(jī)的使用，有時(shí)候，你可能甚至故意變化你抓握巖石的方式。結(jié)果是，任何單一的抓握姿勢(shì)不大可能達(dá)到最大效力，因此，某個(gè)抓握姿勢(shì)(例如，crimp，open hand，pinch等)只是緩慢增加力量。這會(huì)幫助你理解為什么一個(gè)全年攀巖者可能確實(shí)需要增加你的無(wú)氧耐力(例如力量的持久力)，但較少去增加你的絕對(duì)最大抓握力量。因此，改變不同的抓握姿勢(shì)達(dá)到最大化耐力在為了成績(jī)攀巖的時(shí)候是一個(gè)很好的策略，但對(duì)于訓(xùn)練最大的抓握力會(huì)是一個(gè)差的主意。有效率的手指力量訓(xùn)練需要你確定一個(gè)明確的抓握姿勢(shì)位為目標(biāo)，去做直到力竭。(見(jiàn)HIT Workouts )
As a final note， it may be best for some climbers to engage in physical conditioning that is not sport-specific in nature. For example， an overweight individual would be better off spending their non-climbing training time performing aerobic exercise (and， of course， improve their dietary surveillance) rather than sport-specific climbing exercises. Likewise， some “way out-of-shape” individual (i.e. unable to do even a few pull-ups， push-ups， abdominal crunches， etc.) would be better off engaging in a period of standard circuit training to improve general conditioning.
最后一點(diǎn)，對(duì)一些攀巖者來(lái)說(shuō)，進(jìn)行不是運(yùn)動(dòng)專(zhuān)項(xiàng)的自然的體能訓(xùn)練可能是最好的。例如，一個(gè)體重超重的人花在非攀巖訓(xùn)練上的有氧運(yùn)動(dòng)(當(dāng)然，也要改善他們的飲食控制)會(huì)比運(yùn)動(dòng)專(zhuān)項(xiàng)的攀巖練習(xí)要好。同樣的，一些“沒(méi)有體型”的個(gè)人(例如，甚至不能做幾個(gè)引體，俯臥撐，仰臥起坐等)進(jìn)行一段時(shí)期的為改善整體身體狀況的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)訓(xùn)練循環(huán)會(huì)好起來(lái)的。
In the final analysis， if you are serious about climbing performance you must not be satisfied simply “climbing for training”， nor can you mindless adhere to old adages or train in the flawed ways as most other climbers do. Becoming the best (and strongest) climber possible demands that you become a knowledgeable self-coach and thoughtful practitioner of “training for climbing.”
最后分析，如果你很在在意攀巖的表現(xiàn)成績(jī)，你千萬(wàn)不要滿(mǎn)足簡(jiǎn)單的“攀巖就是訓(xùn)練”，你也不能不加思考地追隨老的信條或和其他大多數(shù)攀巖者一樣在一種有缺陷的方式下進(jìn)行訓(xùn)練。要成為一個(gè)最佳(和最強(qiáng)的)的攀巖者可能要求你要成為一個(gè)有知識(shí)的自我教練和充分思考的“攀巖訓(xùn)練”的從業(yè)者。
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