職業(yè)套裝成為時(shí)尚品牌雙語(yǔ)
自從伊夫•圣羅蘭(Yves St. Laurent)在1966年推出帥氣的“吸煙裝”(Le Smoking)以來(lái)，各大時(shí)裝品牌的秋季系列為職業(yè)女性呈現(xiàn)出了一道最亮麗的風(fēng)景線。接下來(lái)，小編給大家準(zhǔn)備了職業(yè)套裝成為時(shí)尚品牌雙語(yǔ),歡迎大家參考與借鑒。
職業(yè)套裝成為時(shí)尚品牌雙語(yǔ)
The fall 2010 collections may offer the best clothes for working women since Yves St. Laurent introduced the sleek 'Le Smoking' pantsuit in 1966.
在意大利的米蘭，古奇(Gucci)、吉爾•桑達(dá)(Jil Sander)、Etro、瑪尼(Marni)、杜嘉班納(Dolce & Gabbana)、普拉達(dá)(Prada)、寶緹嘉(Bottega Veneta)和Aquilano Rimondi都推出了優(yōu)雅而經(jīng)典的女性套裝──西裝外套搭配長(zhǎng)褲或裙裝。在紐約，馬克•雅可布(Marc Jacobs)、邁克•科爾(Michael Kors)和其他品牌也如法炮制。現(xiàn)在輪到了法國(guó)人來(lái)引領(lǐng)這股潮流──為期九天的巴黎時(shí)裝周近日拉開了帷幕。
In Milan, Gucci, Jil Sander, Etro, Marni, Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Bottega Veneta and Aquilano Rimondi all showed elegant, classic versions of women's suits -- tailored jackets with either pants or skirts to match. In New York, Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors and others did the same. Now it's up to the French -- who are just starting nine days of runways shows in Paris -- to shape the trend.
這些新套裝和過(guò)去幾年流行的款式大不相同。直到最近，實(shí)際上也就是大約兩周以前，從頭到腳搭配一致被認(rèn)為是一種時(shí)尚犯罪?；ǘ鋱D案可以和格子混搭，貂皮也可以和牛仔布放在一起。然而西裝外套和褲子或裙裝相搭配則意味著此人對(duì)時(shí)尚毫無(wú)品味。一個(gè)代表性的款式就是連衣裙搭配開衫，也就是米歇爾•奧巴馬(Michelle Obama)風(fēng)格。眼下，設(shè)計(jì)師們的靈感來(lái)源似乎已經(jīng)從第一夫人米歇爾身上轉(zhuǎn)移到了施樂(lè)(Xerox)董事長(zhǎng)安妮•麥卡伊(Anne Mulcahy)。
It's hard to overstate how different the new suits are from the dominant styles of the past few years. Very recently -- until about two weeks ago, in fact -- being 'matchy-matchy' was considered a fashion crime. Florals could be mixed with plaid and sable with denim. But a tailored jacket that matched its pants or skirt suggested a blind eye toward style. A key look was a dress worn with a cardigan, Michelle Obama-style. Now, it looks as if designers have moved on from the first lady to adopt Xerox Chairman Anne Mulcahy as a muse.
另外，近年來(lái)T臺(tái)上展示的許多服裝款式都無(wú)外乎低領(lǐng)、透明、超短或緊身，這些樣式足夠讓人們?cè)谵k公室里議論上一個(gè)星期的了。這就將很多的職業(yè)女性推向了Talbots或者St. John這些品牌，這讓她們感覺自己已經(jīng)尷尬地落伍了。
Also, many of the clothes shown on runways in recent years were plunging, see-through, micro-mini, or so skinny that they would inspire a week of water-cooler talk at the office. That left a lot of working woman shopping at Talbots or St. John and feeling awkwardly out of fashion.
而新款式則讓人感覺舒服、強(qiáng)勢(shì)，它們也遠(yuǎn)非曲線畢露。這讓人回想起查理(Charlie)女孩兒──上世紀(jì)70年代初露華濃(Revlon)香水廣告里那些穿著套裝的女性。和最近幾年流行的墊肩裝不同，這些衣服除了面料的講究之外并沒有任何夸張之處。長(zhǎng)款上衣和富于垂感的寬腿長(zhǎng)褲讓女性的身材顯得更加高挑。
The new look is comfortable, strong and far from body-revealing. It's redolent of the Charlie girl -- the pantsuit-wearing woman in the early-1970s ads for the Revlon perfume. In contrast to the power-shoulder looks introduced in recent years, there is nothing exaggerated about these clothes except the luxury of the fabrics. The silhouette is elongated, with long jackets and flowy, relatively wide-legged pants.
由模特謝麗•哈克(Shelley Hack)演繹的查理女孩兒影響了許許多多的女性(其中包括當(dāng)年還很年輕的奧普拉•溫弗莉(Oprah Winfrey)，她最近在自己的節(jié)目中作出了上述表示)，她們希望成為廣告中的人物：性感而自信的現(xiàn)代職業(yè)女性。查理女孩兒身著飄逸的套裝，從上衣、裙子到絲綢襯衫都十分搭配。
The Charlie girl, as played by the model Shelley Hack, influenced thousands of women (including a young Oprah Winfrey, the entertainer recently said on her show) who wanted to be just like the figure in the ads: a modern career woman, sexy and confident. She wore a fluid pantsuit whose tailored jacket, trousers and silk blouse all matched.
如今，女性對(duì)于職業(yè)賦予自身的力量不再顯得那么自信滿滿了。不過(guò)在米蘭，托馬斯•邁爾(Tomas Maier)讓人重新回想起了70年代的樂(lè)觀情緒。他為寶緹嘉推出了一款優(yōu)雅的“查理女孩兒”套裝?！罢瓶匾磺械牟皇且路?，而是女性，”他在時(shí)裝秀結(jié)束后表示。
These days, women aren't as optimistic about career empowerment. But in Milan, Tomas Maier, who showed a swank 'Charlie girl' suit for Bottega Veneta, recalled that '70s optimism. 'Clothes are not in control. Women are in control,' he said post-show.
由托馬索•阿奎拉諾 (Tommaso Aquilano)和羅伯特•瑞蒙蒂(Roberto Rimondi)設(shè)計(jì)的品牌Aquilano Rimondi展示了“查理女孩兒”套裝的另一個(gè)版本──深色、雙排扣、寬領(lǐng)──這一適合日常穿著的系列和他們過(guò)去幾季推出的那種過(guò)于考究復(fù)雜的款式形成了強(qiáng)烈反差。在這兩位設(shè)計(jì)師參與設(shè)計(jì)的Gianfranco Ferre品牌時(shí)裝中，他們的風(fēng)格也大為轉(zhuǎn)變：以舒適的灰色羊毛寬腿褲裝和其他剪裁講究的款式為特色，這些款式看起來(lái)是為了突出優(yōu)點(diǎn)而不是暴露身材。
Aquilano Rimondi, designed by Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi, showed another version of a 'Charlie girl' suit -- dark, double-breasted and wide-lapeled -- in a wearable collection that contrasted sharply with the overly dressy and complicated looks they've shown in past seasons. The duo made a similar about-face at Gianfranco Ferre, which they also design, by featuring comfy-looking wide-legged pants in a sparkly gray wool, along with other highly tailored looks that seemed cut to flatter rather than to reveal.
這股套裝潮流已經(jīng)變得勢(shì)不可擋，即使是那些風(fēng)格完全不同的設(shè)計(jì)師也在順勢(shì)而為。以鮮亮的色彩、波希米亞圖案和柔軟面料而聞名的維羅妮卡•艾特羅(Veronica Etro)也推出了搭配一致的上裝和窄腿褲，以及粉紅色的“查理女孩兒”套裝，不過(guò)和雙排扣上衣搭配的卻是七分褲、翻邊褲和闊腿褲。
The suiting trend is so marked that even designers who are known for something entirely different are showing it. Veronica Etro, renowned for her vivid colors, bohemian patterns and fluid fabrics, showed matching tops and narrow-legged pants, as well as a coral-colored 'Charlie girl' suit, updated with cropped, cuffed, wide-legged pants under its double-breasted jacket.
繆西婭•普拉達(dá)(Miuccia Prada)將她的秋季系列稱為“正常的”服裝──“經(jīng)典，經(jīng)典，”她表示。她推出了束腰連衣裙，并在胸線上增加了縫褶的設(shè)計(jì)以貼合普通女性的體型，還搭配了簡(jiǎn)潔的高跟鞋。這和她以往T臺(tái)秀的風(fēng)格相比是個(gè)很大的轉(zhuǎn)變(水靴和短褲是她上個(gè)冬季系列的主打)，甚至可以稱得上是顛覆性的。
Miuccia Prada heralded her fall collection as 'normal' clothing -- 'classical, classical,' she said. She showed nip-waisted dresses, with darts at the bustline to fit a regular woman's figure, and simple heels. It was such a turn from what's usually on her runways (hip waders and panty-shorts were the essence of her last winter collection) that it seemed almost subversive.
看看這些系列在擺上零售店的貨架之后銷售情況如何將是件讓人興奮的事情。美國(guó)的百貨商場(chǎng)似乎正在欣然接納這股潮流。內(nèi)曼•馬庫(kù)斯(Neiman Marcus)的時(shí)尚總監(jiān)肯•唐寧(Ken Downing)在米蘭表示，從目前來(lái)看，這一季的服裝銷售不錯(cuò)。
It will be exciting to see how these collections sell when they arrive in stores. American department stores appear to be embracing the approach. Ken Downing, fashion director for Neiman Marcus, said in Milan that it's been a 'good season so far.'
在米蘭的古奇時(shí)裝秀開場(chǎng)前，波道夫•古德曼(Bergdorf Goodman)的時(shí)尚總監(jiān)琳達(dá)•法戈(Linda Fargo)表示，她歡迎“向經(jīng)典式樣的回歸” 。古奇接下來(lái)的時(shí)裝秀展示了很多搭配一致的灰色套裝──西裝上衣和長(zhǎng)褲，也突出了對(duì)手感和奢華面料的注重。
As she waited for Gucci's show to begin in Milan, Linda Fargo, Bergdorf Goodman's fashion director, said she welcomes the 'return to classic tailoring.' What followed at Gucci was a lot of matching gray suiting -- tailored jackets and long pants -- and an emphasis on texture and luxury fabrics.
這股風(fēng)潮的頂峰出現(xiàn)在了杜嘉班納的秀場(chǎng)上。這一季，他們向西裝外套──還有該品牌裁縫們的高超技藝表達(dá)了敬意。來(lái)自意大利的杜嘉班納靠富于挑逗性的廣告和時(shí)裝秀樹立起了名聲。
The height of the trend came at Dolce & Gabbana, which has built its reputation on provocative ads and shows. This season, it offered an emotional tribute to the tailored jacket -- and the skills of the seamstresses and tailors who labor on the Italian company's clothing.
T臺(tái)上的背景影片展示了這些員工量衣和縫紉的慢鏡頭，而模特們則在前臺(tái)展示著成衣。(為了追求藝術(shù)表現(xiàn)力，西裝外套里面有時(shí)只穿著貼身內(nèi)衣。)影片對(duì)縫紉技藝的展現(xiàn)充滿了敬意，這讓臺(tái)下的許多觀眾為之感動(dòng)。更多信息請(qǐng)?jiān)L問(wèn)：http://www.24en.com/
A film in the backdrop showed these employees measuring, pinning and stitching in slow motion, as live models in the foreground cat-walked in versions of tailored suits. (For artistic effect, the jackets were sometimes worn over lingerie.) The acknowledgment of tailoring was so full of reverence that it left numerous moist eyes in the audience.
隨后這場(chǎng)時(shí)裝秀落下了帷幕──不過(guò)，最后出場(chǎng)的不是通常的夢(mèng)幻禮服，而是一件精心剪裁的大衣。
Then the show closed -- not on the standard fantasy gown but on a perfectly tailored overcoat.
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